Located halfway between the Loire Valley and the Pyrenees mountains, the Dordogne is an ideal place to retire in the south of France. Though, there’s much more to this region than the mountain views, rolling valley hills and reliably good weather.

Named after the river Dordogne, the area is the third largest department in France, larger than the whole of Cyprus. It’s a popular place for international residents to retire to, with British expats dubbing it ‘Dordogneshire’.

The Dordogne is made up of four districts basic: Périgord Vert, Périgord Blanc, Périgord Pourpre and Périgord Noir. Each has its own character: the Vert, as you may expect, is named after its green hills, the Blanc for its limestone landscape and architecture, the Pourpre is known for its wine and the Noir for its prehistoric caves, dark trees and truffles.

Why the Dordogne inspires such affection

The Dordogne is loved among international residents because it pulls together many of the dreams of French living into a single region.

Large parts of the region retain their rural character. It’s a landscape blanketed by thick forest and well-tended farmland, cut through by rivers and streams. For residents looking to keep active, the Dordogne offers great hiking, cycling and even canoeing. You can build days around travel between different villages and towns, sampling food and drink as you go.

The towns and chocolate box villages have a distinct look, thanks to the limestone architecture. And, whether you choose to live in a small hamlet or a large town, the essential amenities or routes into the countryside are available to both.

The region’s farms and vineyards have fostered an enviable cuisine. The Dordogne valley is famous for its strawberries, which fill the market stalls of Périgueux, Sarlat and Bergerac every summer. The fruit pairs well with another local delicacy: rocamadour goat’s cheese. Creamy with a hint of hazelnut, it also works well warmed and drizzled with honey. Naturally, all of this can be enjoyed with a local wine, such as a Bergerac Muscadelle.

The Dordogne is filled with distinct architecture

The best towns and villages

It is well worth spending several days in the Dordogne, such is the choice of beautiful towns and villages across the region. Our recommended towns and villages to explore with a view to buying either a second home or permanent home are:

Sarlat

You can find the medieval capital of the Dordogne in the Perigord Noir region. Its historic centre is home to over 250 listed buildings and draws visitors from all over France. The local government has protected the commune from more modern development, retaining its historic architecture. This also makes Sarlat a most attractive place in which to buy property.

In addition to its history, it boasts some gorgeous boutiques, cafes and cosy restaurants as well as having a big Saturday market which is one of the most popular in the Dordogne.

The steep hills are worth it for the views

Beynac-et-Cazenac

Beynac is just 8 kms from Sarlat and really is a must see, especially for fans of the movie Chocolat. The Johnny Depp and Juliette Binoche romance was filmed in its cobbled streets. Nestled on the banks of river Dordogne, the village has earned its place as one of ‘Les plus beaux villages de France’ (One of the most beautiful villages in France)”.

You can walk alongside the river and climb up the hill to find the imposing Chateau de Beynac, set right on top of a cliff and dating back to the Hundred Years War. The village centre is filled with quirky little shops and restaurants, such as La Petite Tonnelle with its delicate chestnut millefeuille. You can also take a trip along the river or enjoy a number of activities, such as canoeing or paddle boarding.

Saint-Cyprien

Slightly larger than Beynac, Saint-Cyprien is the proud home to the Jardin des Plantes de Saint-Cyprien, a botanical garden that’s earned the Ministry of Culture’s prestigious ‘Jardin Remarquable’. It’s the only garden in the Dordogne that’s awarded the accolade.

Built across a hillside crisscrossed with steep cobbled streets, it’s easy to see why the medieval old town is called the Montmartre of Saint Cyprien. Climb to the top of the medieval quarter and you are rewarded with outstanding views across the Dordogne valley.

The small village set in the Vezere valley

Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère

Another member of Les plus beaux villages de France, Saint Leon sur Vezere is in the north of the department. This old port town is overlooked by two chateaux – Manoir de la Salle and the château de Clérans – and home to a 12th century Roman church. In 2024, it also saw one of its restaurants, Le Petit Léon, earn its first Michelin star.

Eymet

In the southeast of the department, just south of Bergerac, Eymet is an unspoiled bastide (fortified town) with a lovely square at its centre. If it looks familiar, it may be because Eymet was the focus of a reality series about British residents in the Dordogne called ‘Little England’.

The town has long been popular with British expats who have even set up a local cricket club Eymet is ideal as a place to retire to which is quintessentially French but with a flavour of English.

This picturesque town is home to an ancient abbey

Brantôme

Famous for the Benedictine Abbey of Brantôme, a version of which has stood in the town since 769. Brantôme sits on an old pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela, a walking route that takes you all the way to western Spain. Spend long enough in town and you will see pilgrims loaded with large rucksacks walking through streets, maybe stopping to fill up water bottles or buy a pastry or two.

Chef Frederic Murati of Michellin-starred ‘Moulin de l’Abbaye’ creates his menus from all the Dordogne has to offer

Near Brantôme are ancient troglodyte caves, which used to be home to Benedictine monks. Along the walls of the caves are carvings and paintings dating back hundreds of years.

There are some excellent restaurants here, including the recently Michelin-starred ‘Moulin de l’Abbaye’. Chef Frederic Murati creates his menus from all the Dordogne has to offer, using local truffles, duck fois gras and Perigord honey.

The property market in the Dordogne

The Dordogne has always been a very popular part of France for British expats and those seeking a second home. Prices vary across the region, the most expensive being in the south-east around Sarlat and the river valley. You will find the cheapest homes in the north of the department, close to Nontron, where the Dordogne borders the Charente.

In the north, you can easily find two- and three-bedroom properties for under €200,000

The good news is that prices tend to hold their own here, so it is a safe bet for an investment property. Expect to pay over €400,000 for a detached stone property with outside space in the south of the region and, in the north, you can easily find two- and three-bedroom properties for under €200,000.

Explore what is on offer in the region today.

Getting there

There are regular flights from various UK airports to Bergerac, Brive and Bordeaux. With such simple connections, it will make it easy for friends and family to visit and for you to travel out of France, should you need.

The train stations in Bergerac, Sarlat and Perigueux connect to Paris making train journeys throughout Europe straightforward.

If you’re looking for a quiet retreat, the Dordogne with its plethora of beautiful villages and medieval towns offers an escape from the hustle bustle. Its popularity of English-speaking international residents also makes the transition into overseas living a gentle one. With homes on offer from €200,000 it is also within reach for many budgets.